Wednesday, September 5, 2007

Tatoga Tribe, Lake Eyasi, Tanzania










This was the second tribe we visited, the Tatoga tribe. They are not as basic as the Hadzabe. These people herd goats, built homes and are NOT nomadic. The men were out herding the goats and can be gone for months at a time. The women were VERY welcoming and friendly. I just felt that they had a really good nature and good hearts. Even though the Tatoga tribe is about 20 miles or so from the Hadzabe, they are very different. The men can marry several women. These women were all the wives of one man. When he returns from the herd, he will rotate his sleeping arrangement every night. The women sleep in the same place every night. The husband is the one that will change beds. The life expectancy is much longer for this tribe. One reason for that is that they drink milk, probably from their goats. The gords hang in the house to hold water and milk. They have more of the fundamental needs being met, having a roof over their heads, plentiful source of food and income w/ the goats, ability to cultivate crops bc they can stay in one place etc.

The houses are made of wood and cow dung. Dung helps to keep it cool, smells a little shitty but at least it's cool. :) Also, the houses seem to be quite solid, I was surprised actually. The roofs need to be replaced every 3 years (I think, can't remember if it was this tribe or not).....

The women were the grandmothers of these babies, I never did figure out where the daughters were. Similar to Hadzabe, all chores are shared, children responsibilities etc. We all sat in the house and we were able to exchange questions w/ these women through our guide/translator. Amongst several questions, I asked how old the women were. The women weren't exactly sure how old they were, they estimated about 40 years old, one woman said she was little when so-and-so president was in office. UNLIKE the Hadzabe, these women had several questions for us.
Was anyone married? Travis and Shauna. Did Missy and I have husbands? No. No? How about boyfriends? yes. Will Travis marry another in case Shauna gets sick? Uh, no. I don't think Shauna would dig that. Where were we from? America.

Now I think I have this story straight, but when a man wants a wife, he takes goats or cattle to the father as a gesture. Even if the girl does not want to marry, she has to go. Some go kicking and screaming, some are ready. A thick gold bracelet is worn by the women as a symbol of marriage. Interestingly, these bracelets are made from discarded padlocks, pieces of pipe, soft metal that can be melted in the fire, shaped, designed.

The clothing is made from cow hide and the deep brown color is from the cow urine, it sort of seals the fabric. Smells!! There is a frayed skirt the married woman will wear under her dress. She NEVER takes this off, even to bathe. When she bathes, she will wash mostly her upper body. It reminded me of a chastity belt that you can't take off. The bead work these women make on their dresses is stunning. I hope the photo captured the detail, it truly is beautiful.

Their earrings are for fashion and personal preference, no symbolism behind it.

One woman had a tattooed face. The skin is cut and cow dung is used to make the color. This is for decoration and viewed as beauty by the tribe. Unlike the Maori in New Zealand where tattoos are worn when the individual accomplishes a great feat, these are purely for aesthetic purposes.

Missy and I both purchased a wedding bracelet. Actually, they were more of a smaller version and more for decoration than the real thing, but we liked them.

I really liked our visit with these women, they were so gracious and accommodating.

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